For our final, third stop in Los Angeles, we saved Griffith Observatory – an iconic observatory with one of the most beautiful views of the city, the Hollywood Sign, and downtown LA. It is a place that belongs on every itinerary and one I would recommend that no one skip.
What Griffith Observatory is and how it came to be
Griffith Observatory stands on the southern slope of Mount Hollywood, in the heart of the sprawling Griffith Park, and its story dates back to the late 19th century. In 1896, Welsh immigrant and businessman Griffith J. Griffith donated more than 3,000 acres of land to the City of Los Angeles with a vision of creating a public park for ordinary people. In 1904, he looked through a telescope at the Mount Wilson Observatory, and the experience affected him so deeply that he decided to build an observatory accessible to the general public – not just to scientists behind closed doors on remote mountain peaks.
Griffith did not live to see it built – he died in 1919 and left the money for its construction in his will. Construction began in June 1933, in the midst of the Great Depression, and less than two years later, on May 14, 1935, the observatory officially opened as the third planetarium in the entire United States. More than 13,000 visitors passed through its doors during the first five days.
What personally surprised me was that admission to the observatory has been completely free since it opened in 1935 – thanks to the wishes of the founder himself, who explicitly stated this in his will. The only thing you have to pay for is admission to the planetarium, which costs just a few dollars.
Interesting facts worth mentioning
Griffith Observatory is not just “an observation deck with a nice view.” More than 9 million people have looked through its famous 12-inch Zeiss refracting telescope, making it the most-viewed telescope in the world. Every evening when the observatory is open and the weather permits, visitors can observe the night sky free of charge – either through this historic telescope on the roof or through portable telescopes set up outside.
Inside the building, you will find a Foucault pendulum that clearly demonstrates the Earth's rotation, replicas of the planets in the solar system, murals by Hugo Ballin from 1934, and a Tesla coil that lights up every hour with spectacular lightning-like electrical discharges. The building itself was designed in the Art Deco style with elements of Greek architecture, and its main axes are precisely aligned north–south and east–west – nothing here is accidental.
During World War II, naval pilots trained in the planetarium to navigate by the stars. The same facilities were later used by Apollo program astronauts as they prepared for their first missions to the Moon.
Film fans will certainly recognize the observatory. Scenes from the 1955 cult film Rebel Without a Cause, starring James Dean, were filmed right here – you can also find his bronze bust on the observatory grounds. However, the observatory has also appeared in films such as The Terminator, La La Land, and Transformers, and has featured in more than 170 film and television productions overall. So even if you are seeing it in person for the first time, there is a good chance you have already seen it somewhere before.
In front of the main entrance stands the impressive Astronomers Monument – a 1934 sculpture topped by an armillary sphere, honoring six of history's most important astronomers.
Hollywood Sign: an advertisement that survived an entire century
Griffith Observatory offers a beautiful, unobstructed view of the Hollywood Sign – nine iconic white letters that have become a symbol not only of Hollywood, but of all Los Angeles and, in fact, American pop culture as a whole.
However, few people know that the sign originally read “HOLLYWOODLAND” and was erected in 1923 as a temporary advertisement for a newly developed luxury residential neighborhood. The entire project was spearheaded by Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler. The sign was only supposed to stand for 18 months. Each of the original thirteen letters was around 13 meters tall and fitted with four thousand light bulbs that flashed in sequence at night – first “HOLLY,” then “WOOD,” and finally “LAND.” It must have been a truly spectacular sight at the time.
However, during the Great Depression, the real estate development promoted by the sign went bankrupt, and the sign gradually began to deteriorate. In 1944, the land came under city ownership, and in 1949, the final four letters, “LAND,” were removed – leaving only “HOLLYWOOD,” which had long since come to represent something much bigger than a single residential neighborhood.
By the late 1970s, the sign was in a completely dilapidated state – one of the “O”s had rolled down the hillside, and the “L” had been damaged by an arsonist. In 1978, Hugh Hefner held a benefit gala at his Playboy Mansion, where nine donors contributed toward a complete reconstruction. Among them was singer Alice Cooper, who dedicated his letter, the second “O,” to the memory of comedian Groucho Marx. The current sign, made of steel, enamel, and concrete, with each letter standing just under 14 meters tall, has occupied the site ever since.
You can also hike to the Hollywood Sign, but not via Griffith Observatory – the trailheads are elsewhere, such as at Beachwood Canyon. However, the observatory probably offers the best view of the sign anywhere.
Wings of Mexico
While walking around the observatory, we came across a large bronze sculpture of larger-than-life angel wings, in front of which practically every visitor takes a photo. It is a work by Mexican sculptor Jorge Marín titled Alas de México (Wings of Mexico), which the City of Los Angeles received as a gift from Mexico City. The sculpture was installed at this location in June 2022 for the Summit of the Americas and is one of 28 similar sculptures located around the world – you can find them in places such as Berlin, Dubai, Singapore, and Tel Aviv.
The entire project is about connecting cities through a shared artistic heritage. The sculpture is positioned so that the Hollywood Sign and hills rise in the background – so if you are looking for the perfect LA photo, this is one of the best spots.
When your phone rings in LA and it isn't your mom – an earthquake
One thing I definitely did not expect in Los Angeles was an earthquake alert directly on my phone. The USGS ShakeAlert system can detect earthquakes and send warnings to phones in the affected area before the shaking arrives. This actually happened to us – a message appeared on the screen saying, “Earthquake Detected! Drop, Cover, Hold On. Protect Yourself.”
Honestly, when you see this for the first time and you are in an area where everyone warns you about “The Big One,” it raises your heart rate a little. Fortunately, it was only a minor tremor, nothing happened, and we did not actually feel anything. But it was an interesting experience – in the Czech Republic, of course, we are not familiar with anything like this. California is generally one of the most seismically active regions in the United States and has recorded an above-average number of earthquakes in recent years alone.
So if your phone's vibrations wake you up in LA with an earthquake warning, do not panic – but follow the instructions: drop, cover your head, and hold on.
Our experience and practical tips
We walked around the entire site, took panoramic photos, and enjoyed the views of the city and the surrounding hills. Honestly, apart from the beautiful view of the Hollywood Sign and downtown LA, and the chance to walk around the observatory building, I did not find anything else particularly interesting to see there. But the view more than makes up for it.
One thing you should definitely watch out for: Before you go, check in advance whether an event or festival is taking place. We headed there one evening, but some event was underway – we waited in traffic for about an hour and did not manage to get up there at all. In the end, we left it until the following morning before departing LA, and there were no problems. So here is a tip: always check in advance what is currently happening at Griffith Observatory, either on its website or social media, and if there is a major event taking place, I definitely would not go there.
Parking directly by the observatory is limited and practically impossible during peak hours. Alternatively, you can park near the Greek Theatre, provided there is no concert taking place, and take the DASH bus from there or walk – the journey takes approximately 15–20 minutes.
The observatory is open from Tuesday to Sunday and closed on Mondays. On weekdays, it opens at 12:00 p.m.; on weekends, it opens at 10:00 a.m. It closes at 10:00 p.m.
Would I recommend visiting?
In my opinion, Griffith Observatory is unquestionably a must-see in Los Angeles. Beautiful views, panoramas of the entire city, the Hollywood Sign within reach, and a completely unique atmosphere – all of it entirely free. If you are going to be in LA, you do not want to miss this. Just remember to check in advance whether an event is taking place, and ideally visit in the morning, when there are significantly fewer visitors.
